95-97 Barrel sample. Initially, the wine seems austere, very mineral. It opens slowly, showing fruit that is definitely rich, offering velvet tannins. But there is also an iron hand in that velvet glove, because the structure then comes bursting through.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.