93–95. Barrel Sample. This is a beautiful wine, ripe in swathes of rich apple and peach that is cut by bright, lemony acidity. It is exuberant, putting its fruit on a pedestal, and should age well. Hold until 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.