Although initially austere, the wine opens up to give firm, dry tannins and black berry juice fruits, balanced with tobacco. It is restrained at this stage, the fruit not quite bursting into life. Wait for 2–3 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.