94–96. Barrel Sample. This is a ripe wine made from rich grapes, although it also has a good sense of structure and even restraint. It does have freshness that allows the wine to have great lift through the close. There is also a solid, dark character that continues through to the dry finish.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.