91–93 This has solid, modern, polished fruit that is taking on new-wood flavors. But that fruit is rich enough to power through the wood and give freshness and ripeness when mature.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.