In recent years, the Gardiniers of Phélan-Ségur seem to have become preoccupied with wood, generally too much. It's the same in 2006, and it is a shame, because everything else about this wine is balanced—the fruit is ripe and sweet and there is some freshness from a cranberry note. It just needs the wood to become less dominant.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.