88-90 Barrel sample. As so often in past vintages, the new wood seems out of kilter with the fruit. It makes for a tight wine, toasty, and there is solid fruit there. But the wood comes through too strongly.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.