The wine suffers from heavy extraction that has left wood rather than fruit. Somewhere in there, the black-currant fruit and acidity are struggling. It will soften, although that wood will remain a problem.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.