96–98. Barrel Sample. This wine is ripe, perfumed and firmly textured. It has balance, concentrated tannins and already just the right sense of wood and structure. It will obviously last; try it in 12–15 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.