94–96. Barrel Sample. This wine is already beautiful. With spice, great swathes of lemon and crisp apple fruit, it is structured while also immediately appealing in its elegant purity. It will develop over many years; try to wait until 2025.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.