Chateau St. Jean 1996 Cing Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County)

Toast and heavily roasted coffee-bean aromas dominate the nose at first, but a bright core of black-currant and blackberry fruit begins to emerge with vigorous swirling. Shows impressive concentration, a gorgeous silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, with only a bit of astringency on the finish—something that a few years in the cellar should cure. Best from 2002. Joe Czerwinski

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