This Bordeaux blend has a different artist's label every year but otherwise has no identity of its own. This new release is tight, hot and shows signs of reduction; it's got a burnt rubber scent underlying the ultraripe, almost pruny fruit. It's just not a compelling wine; it hasn't jelled and it doesn't seem as if it will. There is concentration and power to be sure, but pleasure is in short supply.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.