The wine is mature, with smoky acidity, autumn leaf aromas and a sense that is beginning to dry out. With its memories of berry fruits and the arrival of a leather texture, it should be drunk now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.