A serious commitment to wood aging has given this wine a dark-chocolate and extracted set of flavors. This masks the wine, which seems almost austere. It will likely remain tough.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.