91–93. Barrel sample. While initially tough and almost too extracted, this firm, dark wine has intense density and spice from new wood. As it opens on the palate, slowly hints of juicy black-currant fruit and acidity comes through.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.