95–97. Barrel Sample. This estate is now in its stride, losing the austerity of the past and going for a more generous interpretation of its vineyard sites. The wine is both fruity and structured, dense in flavor, but with surprising elegance. It will age well, and should be ready to drink after 2032.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.