Touches of toast and tannin give enough structure. The red berry fruits taste firm and extracted, giving a bitter edge. It's a wine that brings out the structured character of Pinot Noir rather than its fruit.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.