Considering the almost perfect conditions of 2005, this is certainly better than previous vintages of Clarendelle, the branded wine from Château Haut-Brion. But it still has an awkward stalky edge to it, which cuts through the otherwise rich, velvet texture, leaving bitterness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.