This creeps up slowly, gradually revealing its rich, spicy character that's laced with creamed pear and vanilla. What it lacks in fresh acidity, it certainly makes up for in ripeness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.