Suave aromas of browned butter, preserved lemons and seared nectarine surround alkalinity on this purely-for-the-love side project of Jim Clendenen. The edges of the palate are lush and rich with vanilla cream, roasted nuts and butter, but the center holds laser-tight to singed lemon acidity before a finish that shows some marshmallow and nutmeg spice. The wine seems to be peaking now.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: email@example.com.