Clos Henri 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough)

In line with this biodynamic winery's attempts to reflect site and vintage as truly as possible, the 2017 Sauvignon is clearly from a cool year. Medium-gold in hue, the restrained nose is a quiet medley of citrus, tomato leaf, flint, salted nuts and toast, thanks to barrel maturation for a portion of the fruit. The palate is highly textural. There's very little fruit here (for a brighter, more approachable SB this vintage, try this producer's Petit Clos wine), and the finish feels like biting into a grape seed. But balance and complexity promises more interest in the coming years. Drink 2020–2025. Christina Pickard