Clos Pepe 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)

The pleasures of forest floor funk—from pine and turned earth to cheese rind and raw beef—shine through on the nose of this bottling, one of the winery's last vintages since leasing the vineyard. The palate shows dried cherries and asphalt, proving a touch reductive, but in the most intriguing way, finishing with a bitter grip. Matt Kettmann

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