Cockburn's single quinta from the upper Douro is a rich, ripe wine, with softness and a texture like down pillows, plump and generous. There is spice to add character, although at this stage the spirit still comes through strongly, suggesting it needs to settle down.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.