Columbia Crest 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))

Winemaker Doug Gore should be on everybody's list of best winemakers in America, but the size and low price points of his ambitious lineup seems to preclude that. This is a tight, hard, tannic Cabernet, with chewy, almost tough red fruit, but plenty of stuffing to go the distance. It opens up beautifully in the glass. Best Buy. Paul Gregutt

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