This top-of-the-line Chardonnay from Columbia Crest gets extra time in barrel and bottle, and comes from the much-heralded 1998 vintage. It's a rich, creamy style, with less obvious buttery oak than the Grand Estates, but more complexity and a thicker, more complex feel to it. Flavors mix fruit, wood, spice and herb evenly. It has a comforting feeling of weight to it; it's not just up-front, aggressive flavors. Editors' Choice.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.