Columbia Crest 2003 Grand Estates Shiraz (Columbia Valley (WA))

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This is a clear step up from the excellent Two Vines Shiraz, and worth the extra couple of bucks. Wild berry flavors and varietal spice are given a somewhat tannic, earthy frame. Flavors suggest graphite, moist soil and some textural, grainy tannins. It's substantial, not just simple and fruity, and offers a lot of depth for the price. Paul Gregutt

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