This is Columbia's top of the line Bordeaux blend—49% Cabernet Sauvignon/31% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc. Although its release has been held back for six years—extraordinary by American standards—it still feels unresolved and incomplete. There is steely black fruit, some earthy tannins, firm acids and rough oak, but it's all in parts, and needs still more time in bottle to pull together.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.