Columbia Winery 1997 Peninsula Red (Yakima Valley)

This is Columbia's top of the line Bordeaux blend—49% Cabernet Sauvignon/31% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc. Although its release has been held back for six years—extraordinary by American standards—it still feels unresolved and incomplete. There is steely black fruit, some earthy tannins, firm acids and rough oak, but it's all in parts, and needs still more time in bottle to pull together. Paul Gregutt

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