Comtesse Thérèse 2004 Russian Oak Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island)

The oak, although prominent in the name, isn't so obvious on the nose of this wine. Instead there's underripe peach and melon, followed by flavors that are more like apples and pears. It's a pleasant, medium-bodied wine with a slightly custardy texture and strong pencilly oak overtones showing through only on the finish. Joe Czerwinski

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