Alvarinho with a prickle is unusual, as is a Vinho Verde that has been aged an extra year before release. The wine doesn't quite work because it has lost its fruit and developed a strong pepper and spice character. The acidity at the end is the most characteristic part of the wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.