Although the spicy wood is dominant in this wine at this stage, it has great potential. Under that wood, there are fine, rich red fruits and good jelly flavors. Given three or four years, it should balance out. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.