A wine that has become something of a cult in Portugal, perhaps because of its mystery name (referring to a time when Syrah was not permitted in Portugal). This 2005 keeps the open, ripe blackberry jam fruit, with dark chocolate and herbal flavors. It has a generous, earthy character.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.