Norman Beko saves library wines for his fans to enjoy, and this bottling, which shows its age yet remains interesting, is one great example. Kirsch, leather, charred wood and cola aromas lead to a palate laced with hibiscus, cherry paste, hoisin and earthy spice. It is nearly past its prime, so drink up.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.