It's a sign of the times that a wine from supposedly cool Loire can have 14.5 percent alcohol. The wine handles it well with its solid tannins, dark black fruits and a sense of freshness as well as structure. The wine is complex, powerful and worth aging for 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.