Craggy Range 2018 Te Kahu Single Vineyeard, Gimblett Gravels Red (Hawke's Bay)

This is a hodgepodge of Bordeaux varieties with Merlot leading the pack. The relatively cool climate winemaking is on display here via freshness and fruity tang. But there's initially a blanket of reductive funk on the nose. Underneath peeps some lovely juicy berry fruit and green peppercorn spice, which, with time in glass, floats to the fore. Things improve greatly on the palate where a lift of acidity brightens the fruit. Tannins are sinewy and muscular, and a savory spice note flows through to the finish. Christina Pickard

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