Crane Brothers 2004 Crane Ranch Vineyard Hillside Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

What's so nice about this Cab is that it's the opposite of today's cult Cab style, which is soft and gooey. Instead, it's tannic and acidic and not ashamed of presenting these food-worthy aspects of its personality. Tastes like a young, ageable Third or Fourth Growth Bordeaux, with a good core of black currants and cedar. Put it in the cellar until 2009 or so, and it should hold and improve for another five years.

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