Crystal Valley Cellars 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville)

Has a lot in common with far more expensive Cabernets. The dark color promises a richness that's confirmed with a sniff revealing ripe cassis fruit and smoky oak. In the mouth, it's quintessentially fine California Cabernet, rich and dry, balanced and delicious. Lacks the extra dimensions of the best stuff, but not by much. Impressive, and a great value. —S.H.

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