This is densely textured with steely minerality and tight acidity. Citrus and the crispest green apples give bright, fresh illumination. It's a very fine wine that needs to age. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.