The local Alfrocheiro grape, when ripe like this, yields broad sweeps of ripe black, tarry fruit. This wine is big, fat and stately. It will offer a great time if you drink it now, but it will certainly age well over the next 5–10 years. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.