The immense, amazingly heavy bottle somehow goes with this big, dense wine. Concentrated, black-currant fruit and powerful tannins. Dark cherries and a hint of herbs complete the balance. Best Buy. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.