If any proof were needed that Touriga Nacional is one of Portugal's greatest vinous treasures, this wine offers it. It is both elegant and densely powerful, a many-layered wine that has firmly dry tannins (give it another 2–3 years of aging), herbs and black fruits and a big, chunky aftertaste that trails a lift of acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.