Firm tannins give this wine great structure. In a good sense, it has an old-fashioned leathery feel to it, very firm, dry, the fruit showing richness while already pointing towards maturity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.