This wine is definitely woody, with tough toast over the fruit flavors and mineral texture, yielding a bitter, extracted character that will always feel dry. However, give it until 2016 and the fruit may get a chance to shine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.