David Hill 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

Mostly from older vines, this crisp, herbal reserve doesn't bowl you over with sweet fruit or toasty oak; rather, it shows a more Burgundian side of the grape. It's reticent and leafy, with subtle flavors of earth and rock mixed in with tart pie cherries. Careful and sensitive winemaking does not overreach; the balance and elegance of the wine suggests that it could be cellared for a decade or more. Paul Gregutt

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