De Loach 1999 Olivet Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

The lees that the wine was aged on dominate the aromas, with that curiously appealing sour-cream scent that promises a richly creamy texture. And so it is, wrapped gently around delicious apple fruit flavors and dusty oriental spices. It's a dry wine, with great structure, and a zesty acidity that's high by Sonoma standards.

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