Bottled in a decanter (thoughtfully supplied with a stopper), this is De Venoge's homage to King Louis XV, who first decreed the bottling of Champagne in the region to preserve the bubbles. This shows toasty, petrol richness, but has preserved much of its original freshness, leaving a good few years' potential.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.