Deerfield Ranch 1999 Roumiguiere Vineyard Sangiovese (Lake County)

A tantalizing wine, at once rigid and austere, then yielding and generous. It's pale in color, with earthy smells of sun-warmed red brick, dust and an elusive hint of black cherry. Remarkably light in the mouth, like air, with silky tannins. Firm acids scream out for Italian food. —S.H.

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