Though it has been on the market for some weeks, this wine is wrapped up tight as a drum. Firm fruit suggests black cherry, blackberry and cassis, and it shows underlying streaks of dark, mineral-saturated Red Mountain terroir. The weight and dimension of this wine, borne out in past vintages, is not immediately apparent in this latest release—give it time to breathe and it begins to open gradually, revealing layers of smoke, tar, spice and coffee underneath the tight fruit.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.