DeLille 2003 Doyenne Syrah (Columbia Valley (WA))

Though still a dense, chalky mouthful of wine, the 2003 Doyenne is a bit more restrained than the over-the-top 2002. Dark streaks of smoke, earth, tar, roasted meat and barrel spices dominate; it takes a lot of breathing time to bring out the underlying fruit. Paul Gregutt

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