In France, Alicante Bouchet is frowned upon for its poor quality. In Portugal, it is capable of making some of the country's finest wines. This is typical, with its sweet, jelly-like aromas and ripe, dense fruit. There's an evocative, herby, Mediterranean sunshine feel to it. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.