This is a curious, soapy wine with considerable bitterness. There is a toasty edge that shows some bottle maturity, and contrasts with the tense, tight acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.